San Antonio Magazine

At the other end of Houston Street, in the lovingly renovated Kress building, a well-financed venture is luring hungry diners above water level. Meaty Texas de Brazil has expanded beyond its Dallas beginnings to 17 international locations with several more planned. The Brazilian churrascaria concept is simple: It’s all about the grilled meat and not about the menu. Diners begin with a trip to an abundant salad and goodies bar, and settle in for a parade of spit-grilled lamb, pork, beef and chicken that appears tableside. It’s truly a battle of the eyes vs. the stomach (eventually the stomach wins).

Texas de Brazil is San Antonio’s third churrascaria, joining Fogo de Chao (adjacent to Rivercenter Mall) and Chama (off 1604 near Stone Oak). Each offers slight variations on the theme and their own side twists. What sets Texas de Brazil apart is the richly renovated dramatic decor and the “aerial wine artists,” who acrobatically retrieve bottles from a two-story wine rack.

Friday, April 1, 2011